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e-borghi travel 5, Landscapes and villages: Itinerary: The “villages of the Infinite”

Sweet hills spotted with tiny villages overlooking Mount Conero. This is Giacomo Leopardi’s birthland and this landscape has always been a source of inspiration for the past and present artists and for the tourists who fancy spending at least one week-end in search of its treasures. Recanati, Osimo, Castelfidardo, Loreto, Montelupone as well as Polverigi, Agugliano and Santa Maria Nuova are among the best-known destinations of the so-called “villages of the Infinite”, the poem by Leopardi that’s going to celebrate its bicentenary. There are ancient villages like Osimo whose Baptistery keeps some works by Antonio Sarti where it’s impossible to get bored: there are plenty of tracks in the green, music routes (Castelfidardo is the homeland of the accordion), food and wine routes and religious tracks. Actually Corinaldo is santa Maria Goretti’s homeland while in Loreto there’s a big Sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary, according to the tradition Mary’s house was brought there by the angels. Light blue, green and red The Conero natural oasis is the perfect starting point to discover this landscape overlooking the clear blue sea, its wine routes and its historical villages. You could start your trip from Sirolo, a village that has been awarded with the blue flag because of its famous black stones beach that offers an amazing view on the Mount Conero. Camerano and its wine cellars is a must in the hinterland: this ancient village is the homeland of the Rosso Conero, a Doc wine with a 52 years old history that goes back to the ages of the Benedictine monasteries. Giacomo Leopardi was one of its best fans. This wine is featured by a dark red colour and it’s made of Montepulciano wines by 85% with a little addition of Sangiovese and it’s spread on the hills from Ancona to Offagna, a village overlooked by a fortress and the setting of one of the most important Medieval festivals of this region. Recanati: poetry, music and art Poetry, music and art come together in Recanati, the “old native village” by Leopardi as well as the home-village of Beniamino Gigli, the legendary tenor to whom the Civic Museum Beniamino Gigli is dedicated, it’s located in the “Sala dei Trenta” of the Persiani Theatre. Visiting Recanati implies breathing Leopardi and going deep into its lyrical mood that is tangible in this village which is plunged into the hills of Marche. The Leopardi Palace can’t be missed, it looks out on a tiny square that is called “Il sabato del villaggio“ (The Village Saturday Night) as well as the Tower dating back to the 12th century that is called “Passero Solitario” (The Lonely Sparrow) and the Hill of the Infinite that is taken for granted. The museum dedicated to the migration from Marche deserves a visit, it’s an interactive museum based in Villa Colloredo Mels that tells about this region and its inhabitants that preferred or needed to find a better future abroad. The hinterland: adventures and mystery The mystery, the adventure and the esoteric symbols feature the “infinite” villages’ underground soil. In Osimo and Camerano they used to dig the defensive walkways in the sandstone since they were useful and they enabled to get the water and the raw materials in case of siege but they were also secret worship places that became real underground cities. You can go through this mysterious world where history is mixed with the legends. In the village of Camerano you can explore an entire underground city. In Osimo the “Caves of Cantinone” stretch below the indoor market and the Sanctuary of Saint Joseph from Copertino and they are open all year through. You can book your visit and you can choose three routes that are featured by some esoteric symbols: the Simonetti caves; the Riccioni caves where you can see a room with the shape of a star and the caves of Piazza Dante that can be reached through the ancient cellars of the Fregonara-Gallo Palace. Slow exploration You will enjoy the landscapes that surround the “villages of the infinite” if you slowly travel across the interland roads. You can cycle, you can use the electric bike, you can walk by using the Nordic walking sticks or you can go horse-riding and you should take all the time you need to fully enjoy the colors and the scents of the surrounding natural scenery. One of the best places to slow your time down is the valley crossed by the river Musone where you can see different species of birds like the white and the grey herons and the river storks. For the sports lovers the rural cycle tracks are a great alternative, they cover around 80 kilometres and they are offer you the chance of photographing the villages going up and down the countryside. You can leave from Camerano, follow the coastline route towards Sirolo and Numana and reach Loreto, you can relax on the Hill of the Infinite of Recanati and you can end your trip in Castelfidardo surrounded by the blaze of the accordions’ sound (virtually at least) and keep the colours of these landscapes in your eyes.

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  • #Italianlandscapes
  • #agugliano
  • #camerano
  • #castelfiardo
  • #conero
  • #corinaldo
  • #giacomoleopardi
  • #itinerary
  • #loreto
  • #montelupone
  • #osimo
  • #polverigi
  • #recanati
  • #santamarianuova
  • #villagesoftheinfinite


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